Separate resin parts for further cleaning eyelets. Remove thin resin remnants with sharp blade. Please, be careful, sharp blade may hurt you or damage resin part. Clean and polish joining points of resin parts with sandpaper. Use 800–1000 grade sandpaper. To separate eyelet from resin sprue please scratch the line near the part. Use sharp needle and scratch the surface several times. Break the part from the sprue and sand the surface with file and polish with sandpaper.
Step 2 — Fitting of parts
Lay the copper line on the kit in the way you would like to fix it. Check the length of the cable, mark it with pencil and cut off unnecessary part.
Step 3 — Completing
Due to construction of towing cable — several small wires braided around thicker core — remember to add small amount of cyanoacrylate glue (called often CA glue). Each end of towing cable should have rounded cross-section and all small wiresshould be in proper order. Hole in resin eyelet has diameter equal to diameter of complete towing cable.
Original towing lines are wrapped around with wire near the eyelets quite often. This can be replicated in scale kit with thin copper wire (Ø 0.10–0.15 mm) just like on photos above. Such wired section in 1/35 scale should be about 1.5–2 mm long. Please remember to leave 1.5 mm of unwired cable section which will be glued into resin eyelet.
Step 4 — Priming
Such prepared towing cable should be primed with Mr.Metal Primer or similar primer.
Step 5 — Masking and painting
Please remember to mask gluing areas before painting. It’s very important for proper fixing of parts. Masked elements should be painted with camouflage colours of your choice.
Step 6 — Weathering and finish
Painted parts should be left for drying. After that you may add some weathering and make cables looking a little bit worn. When all effects are added you may install such prepared element on your kit.]]>